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Marcin Szczepanski

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26 images Created 26 Sep 2021

People of the River

This photo essay aims to capture the relationship between the members of a traditional river community of Barra do São Lorenço and the natural world in Pantanal, the largest tropical wetlands in the world.

Pantanal, on the border between Brazil and Bolivia, is the largest tropical wetland in the world. It covers 77,000 sq miles, roughly one third of the size of France. The region is one of the most bio-diverse areas on the planet, with around 475 species of birds, 350 species of fish, 135 species of mammals, and around 80 reptile species.

Pantanal relies on a delicate balance of seasonal flooding and clean water flowing through the marshes. Climate change and an increasingly volatile weather presents an existential threat to the wetlands. In 2020, one third of the Pantanal vegetation burned in massive fires, causing devastating loss of wildlife and damaging the livelihood of traditional local communities.

Pantanal is inhabited by ‘Ribeirinhos’, People of the River. They are the descendents of local indifenious people, Brazilian settlers and poor residents of local municipalities who settled on the river banks, among the marshes.

Barra do São Lorenço is one of the more remote villages in Pantanal. It takes local residents up to 30 hours down the river on a small cattle boat to get to the nearest city of Corumba.

Life in Barra is precarious and unpredictable. Residents of the village eke out a living on a narrow strip of higher land (20-100 meters) between the river and the marshes. The river bank in the village constantly erodes due to waves caused by the wealthy fishermen’s speed boats. The river has already taken 2-3 meters of the dry land in the last 2-3 years. The water levels go up and down several meters, depending on the season.

Residents' livelihood depends on the sale of fishing bait, mainly small crab (caranguejo) to the tourist fishermen who arrive on large boats and then fish the river in small speed boats. The sale of fish to the passing tourists is another, much smaller source of income.

In the last decades several private nature reserves and a national park have been created in the area surrounding the village. Local, traditional fishermen have been forbidden entry into these areas. It dramatically limited fishing and wood collection opportunities for the local population.

Pantanal’s ribeirinhos live immersed in nature. The river and marshes provide them with the type of livelihood that used to be more common on our planet but now it is limited to select, remote areas.
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  • Just before a storms hits the village, teenage boys and men in their early 20s from Barra do São Lorenço go for a refreshing jump into the river. They just finished their daily soccer game.   <br />
<br />
 In 1994 the community was forced out of their houses on a higher ground on the mountain side of the river after a local fazenda (farm) was turned into a private nature reserve. The international NGO Nature Conservancy bought 56,000 hectares of the land and left it under the leadership of Ecotropica in order to start the nature reserve.  Residents received serious threats and worried about their safety had to leave their houses paddling down the river in tiny wooden canoes in the beginning of the worst weather season here called Piracema where the mosquitos are so prevalent that it's hard to talk or eat without swallowing some. Some women ware pregnant and all residents had to survive without shelter in the season when the rain is almost constant and the temperatures are so high, it's hard to stay inside of the house at night. Residents were given notice as short as one day and some of the houses were burned after they left.  In the last decades several private nature reserves and a national park have been created in the area surrounding the village and local fishermen have been forbidden entry into and fishing in these areas. It dramatically limits  fishing and wood collection opportunities.  In the recent years, Brazilian NGO called ECOA has worked successfully with residents to help them grant access to and fishing rights to a small part of the reserve. Life here is very precarious as the water levels vary dramatically (several meters difference), depending on the season. Residents of the village eke out a living on a vary narrow strip of higher land (20-100 meters) between the river and the marshes. The river bank in the village constantly erodes due to waves caused by the speed boats. The river has already taken 2-3 meters of the dry land in the last 2-3 years.  Reside
    People of the RIver_2021Website_0001.jpg
  • A boy entertains himself by nailing fish who come to feed just off the river bank in the community of Barra do São Lorenço.<br />
<br />
Local residents are mostly the decedents of Indians who had lived in the area for centuries.  In 1994 the community was forced out of their houses on a higher ground on the mountain side of the river after a local fazenda (farm) was turned into a private nature reserve. The international NGO Nature Conservancy bought 56,000 hectares of the land and left it under the leadership of Ecotropica in order to start the nature reserve.  Residents received serious threats and worried about their safety had to leave their houses paddling down the river in tiny wooden canoes in the beginning of the worst weather season here called Piracema where the mosquitos are so prevalent that it's hard to talk or eat without swallowing some. Some women ware pregnant and all residents had to survive without shelter in the season when the rain is almost constant and the temperatures are so high, it's hard to stay inside of the house at night. Residents were given notice as short as one day and some of the houses were burned after they left.  In the last decades several private nature reserves and a national park have been created in the area surrounding the village and local fishermen have been forbidden entry into and fishing in these areas. It dramatically limits  fishing and wood collection opportunities.  In the recent years, Brazilian NGO called ECOA has worked successfully with residents to help them grant access to and fishing rights to a small part of the reserve. Life here is very precarious as the water levels vary dramatically.
    People of the RIver_2021Website_0002.jpg
  • Guilherme Gabriel, 1,4 year old, runs out to the river bank to greed his dad Odenice Pereira Alves who comes back from a fishing trip up the river.  Odenice has moved to the community with his wife Iara Aparecida do Carmo 4 months earlier from Corumba, 250 km away. Odenice is not as skilled as local fishermen and often comes back with few if any fish for the family to eat.  Iara grew up in the community and has several other kids with previous partners. Some of them stayed behind in Corumba, two of her sons are raised by Sidy's family next door. <br />
<br />
  Barra do Sao Lorenzo is one of the most remote communities in Pantanal, the largest wetlands in the world.  It takes local residents up to 30 hours on a small passenger and cattle boat to get to the near city of Corumba on the Brazilian and Bolivian border. The city is roughly 250 km of nothing but wetlands from the village. Local residents are mostly the decedents of Indians who had lived in the area for centuries.  In 1994 the community was forced out of their houses on a higher ground on the mountain side of the river after a local fazenda (farm) was turned into a private nature reserve. The international NGO Nature Conservancy bought 56,000 hectares of the land and left it under the leadership of Ecotropica in order to start the nature reserve.  Residents received serious threats and worried about their safety had to leave their houses paddling down the river in tiny wooden canoes in the beginning of the worst weather season here called Piracema where the mosquitos are so prevalent that it's hard to talk or eat without swallowing some. Some women ware pregnant and all residents had to survive without shelter in the season when the rain is almost constant and the temperatures are so high, it's hard to stay inside of the house at night. Residents were given notice as short as one day and some of the houses were burned after they left.
    People of the RIver_2021Website_0003.jpg
  • Vincente is said to be the last fluent speaker of a native language called Guato.  He stays in a remote hut on the river bank and his only companions are 30 dogs and probably just as many cats. <br />
<br />
Vincente lives dozens of miles from Barra do São Lourenço.  Local residents are mostly the decedents of Indians who had lived in the area for centuries.  In 1994 the community was forced out of their houses on a higher ground on the mountain side of the river after a local fazenda (farm) was turned into a private nature reserve. The international NGO Nature Conservancy bought 56,000 hectares of the land and left it under the leadership of Ecotropica in order to start the nature reserve.  Residents received serious threats and worried about their safety had to leave their houses paddling down the river in tiny wooden canoes in the beginning of the worst weather season here called Piracema where the mosquitos are so prevalent that it's hard to talk or eat without swallowing some. Some women ware pregnant and all residents had to survive without shelter in the season when the rain is almost constant and the temperatures are so high, it's hard to stay inside of the house at night. Residents were given notice as short as one day and some of the houses were burned after they left.  In the last decades several private nature reserves and a national park have been created in the area surrounding the village and local fishermen have been forbidden entry into and fishing in these areas.
    People of the RIver_2021Website_0004.jpg
  • With a swift but powerful blow to the head, Ziferina, wife of Sidy Marques da Silva kills a pitnado she caught a moment earlier. Pintado is a valuable fish on the market. Ziferina, like other wires of local fishermen, usually fishes with Sidy using the same small boat. Ziferina caught 3 pintados that morning, while Sidy didn't catch any. Sidy sells the fish to luxury tourist boats filled with rich fishermen that pass by the village.<br />
<br />
 Local residents are mostly the decedents of Indians who had lived in the area for centuries.  In 1994 the community was forced out of their houses on a higher ground on the mountain side of the river after a local fazenda (farm) was turned into a private nature reserve. The international NGO Nature Conservancy bought 56,000 hectares of the land and left it under the leadership of Ecotropica in order to start the nature reserve.  Residents received serious threats and worried about their safety had to leave their houses paddling down the river in tiny wooden canoes in the beginning of the worst weather season here called Piracema where the mosquitos are so prevalent that it's hard to talk or eat without swallowing some. Some women ware pregnant and all residents had to survive without shelter in the season when the rain is almost constant and the temperatures are so high, it's hard to stay inside of the house at night. Residents were given notice as short as one day and some of the houses were burned after they left.  In the last decades several private nature reserves and a national park have been created in the area surrounding the village and local fishermen have been forbidden entry into it.
    People of the RIver_2021Website_0005.jpg
  • On the river bank outside of his house, Odenice Pereira Aves lets go a fish called Armal that is hard to prepare but also very tasty when prepared right. Odenice, who moved here with his new family 4 months ago from Corumba,  doesn't have nearly as much experience fishing as local residents and he sometimes comes back empty handed from fishing.  The family east only rice that day unless they catch some piranhas off the shore.   Odenice's wife Iara grew up in the community of Barra do Sao Lorenzo, two of her older sons now stay next door with Sidy's family and they seem to ignore their biological mother. Iara moved to the city of Corumba where she lived for years and where she had more children with another man (other men).  She then met and married Odenice Pereira Aves. They have a son together Guilherme Gabriel.  Barra do Sao Lorenzo is one of the most remote communities in Pantanal, possible the largest wetlands in the world.  It takes local residents up to 30 hours on a small passenger and cattle boat to get to the near city of Corumba on the Brazilian and Bolivian border. The city is roughly 250 km of nothing but wetlands from the village. Local residents are mostly the decedents of Indians who had lived in the area for centuries.  In 1994 the community was forced out of their houses on a higher ground on the mountain side of the river after a local fazenda (farm) was turned into a private nature reserve. The international NGO Nature Conservancy bought 56,000 hectares of the land and left it under the leadership of Ecotropica in order to start the nature reserve.  Residents received serious threats and worried about their safety had to leave their houses paddling down the river in tiny wooden canoes in the beginning of the worst weather season here called Piracema where the mosquitos are so prevalent that it's hard to talk or eat without swallowing some. Some women ware pregnant and all residents had to survive without shelter in the season when the rain is almo
    People of the RIver_2021Website_0006.jpg
  • Aleshandre Markis brings his three kids by boat from their house to the main village area.
    People of the RIver_2021Website_0007.jpg
  • An alligator swims in the river near Barra do Sao Lorenzo. Barra do Sao Lorenzo is one of the most remote communities in Pantanal, the largest wetlands in the world.
    People of the RIver_2021Website_0008.jpg
  • Sidy Marques da Silva takes advantage of Saturday, the only day in the week when he doesn't fish to repair his fishing boat called in Portuguese chalana.  Jomes Medeira (7) looks on.  Barra do Sao Lorenzo is one of the most remote communities in Pantanal, possible the largest wetlands in the world.  It takes local residents up to 30 hours on a small passenger and cattle boat to get to the near city of Corumba on the Brazilian and Bolivian border. The city is roughly 250 km of nothing but wetlands from the village. Local residents are mostly the decedents of Indians who had lived in the area for centuries.  In 1994 the community was forced out of their houses on a higher ground on the mountain side of the river after a local fazenda (farm) was turned into a private nature reserve. The international NGO Nature Conservancy bought 56,000 hectares of the land and left it under the leadership of Ecotropica in order to start the nature reserve.  Residents received serious threats and worried about their safety had to leave their houses paddling down the river in tiny wooden canoes in the beginning of the worst weather season here called Piracema where the mosquitos are so prevalent that it's hard to talk or eat without swallowing some. Some women ware pregnant and all residents had to survive without shelter in the season when the rain is almost constant and the temperatures are so high, it's hard to stay inside of the house at night. Residents were given notice as short as one day and some of the houses were burned after they left.  In the last decades several private nature reserves and a national park have been created in the area surrounding the village and local fishermen have been forbidden entry into and fishing in these areas. It dramatically limits  fishing and wood collection opportunities.  In the recent years, Brazilian NGO called ECOA has worked successfully with residents to help them grant access to and fishing rights to a small part of the reserve. Life her
    People of the RIver_2021Website_0009.jpg
  • Vincente is supposed to be the last somewhat fluent speaker of a native language called Guato.  His only companions are 30 dogs and probably just as many cats. <br />
He is the last one who can name all the world around him the way his ancestors did. The ancestors who lived here long before the white man arrived to Brazil.<br />
<br />
Vincente lives dozens of miles from Barra do São Lourenço.   Barra do São Lourenço is one of the most remote communities in Pantanal, possible the largest wetlands in the world.  It takes local residents up to 30 hours on a small passenger and cattle boat to get to the near city of Corumba on the Brazilian and Bolivian border. The city is roughly 250 km of nothing but wetlands from the village. Local residents are mostly the decedents of Indians who had lived in the area for centuries.  In 1994 the community was forced out of their houses on a higher ground on the mountain side of the river after a local fazenda (farm) was turned into a private nature reserve. The international NGO Nature Conservancy bought 56,000 hectares of the land and left it under the leadership of Ecotropica in order to start the nature reserve.  Residents received serious threats and worried about their safety had to leave their houses paddling down the river in tiny wooden canoes in the beginning of the worst weather season here called Piracema where the mosquitos are so prevalent that it's hard to talk or eat without swallowing some. Some women ware pregnant and all residents had to survive without shelter in the season when the rain is almost constant and the temperatures are so high, it's hard to stay inside of the house at night. Residents were given notice as short as one day and some of the houses were burned after they left.  In the last decades several private nature reserves and a national park have been created in the area surrounding the village and local fishermen have been forbidden entry into and fishing in these areas. It dramatically limits  fishing and wood
    People of the RIver_2021Website_0010.jpg
  • Aleshandre Markis cleans piranhas he caught earlier for lunch while two dogs and a cat wait, full of hope, for fish scraps. Barra do São Lourenço is one of the most remote communities in Pantanal, possible the largest wetlands in the world.  It takes local residents up to 30 hours on a small passenger and cattle boat to get to the near city of Corumba on the Brazilian and Bolivian border. The city is roughly 250 km of nothing but wetlands from the village. Local residents are mostly the decedents of Indians who had lived in the area for centuries.  In 1994 the community was forced out of their houses on a higher ground on the mountain side of the river after a local fazenda (farm) was turned into a private nature reserve. The international NGO Nature Conservancy bought 56,000 hectares of the land and left it under the leadership of Ecotropica in order to start the nature reserve.  Residents received serious threats and worried about their safety had to leave their houses paddling down the river in tiny wooden canoes in the beginning of the worst weather season here called Piracema where the mosquitos are so prevalent that it's hard to talk or eat without swallowing some. Some women ware pregnant and all residents had to survive without shelter in the season when the rain is almost constant and the temperatures are so high, it's hard to stay inside of the house at night. Residents were given notice as short as one day and some of the houses were burned after they left.  In the last decades several private nature reserves and a national park have been created in the area surrounding the village and local fishermen have been forbidden entry into and fishing in these areas. It dramatically limits  fishing and wood collection opportunities.  In the recent years, Brazilian NGO called ECOA has worked successfully with residents to help them grant access to and fishing rights to a small part of the reserve. Life here is very precarious as the water levels vary dramaticall
    People of the RIver_2021Website_0011.jpg
  • Ana Victoria do Carmo Silva chases a chick that got into Ana family's house.   Barra do São Lourenço is one of the most remote communities in Pantanal, possible the largest wetlands in the world.  It takes local residents up to 30 hours on a small passenger and cattle boat to get to the near city of Corumba on the Brazilian and Bolivian border. The city is roughly 250 km of nothing but wetlands from the village. Local residents are mostly the decedents of Indians who had lived in the area for centuries.  In 1994 the community was forced out of their houses on a higher ground on the mountain side of the river after a local fazenda (farm) was turned into a private nature reserve. The international NGO Nature Conservancy bought 56,000 hectares of the land and left it under the leadership of Ecotropica in order to start the nature reserve.  Residents received serious threats and worried about their safety had to leave their houses paddling down the river in tiny wooden canoes in the beginning of the worst weather season here called Piracema where the mosquitos are so prevalent that it's hard to talk or eat without swallowing some. Some women ware pregnant and all residents had to survive without shelter in the season when the rain is almost constant and the temperatures are so high, it's hard to stay inside of the house at night. Residents were given notice as short as one day and some of the houses were burned after they left.  In the last decades several private nature reserves and a national park have been created in the area surrounding the village and local fishermen have been forbidden entry into and fishing in these areas. It dramatically limits  fishing and wood collection opportunities.  In the recent years, Brazilian NGO called ECOA has worked successfully with residents to help them grant access to and fishing rights to a small part of the reserve. Life here is very precarious as the water levels vary dramatically (several meters difference), depending on t
    People of the RIver_2021Website_0012.jpg
  • Two dogs fight over food scraps near Leonardo's house in Barra do Sao Lorenzo.   Barra do Sao Lorenzo is one of the most remote communities in Pantanal, possible the largest wetlands in the world.  It takes local residents up to 30 hours on a small passenger and cattle boat to get to the near city of Corumba on the Brazilian and Bolivian border. The city is roughly 250 km of nothing but wetlands from the village. Local residents are mostly the decedents of Indians who had lived in the area for centuries.  In 1994 the community was forced out of their houses on a higher ground on the mountain side of the river after a local fazenda (farm) was turned into a private nature reserve. The international NGO Nature Conservancy bought 56,000 hectares of the land and left it under the leadership of Ecotropica in order to start the nature reserve.  Residents received serious threats and worried about their safety had to leave their houses paddling down the river in tiny wooden canoes in the beginning of the worst weather season here called Piracema where the mosquitos are so prevalent that it's hard to talk or eat without swallowing some. Some women ware pregnant and all residents had to survive without shelter in the season when the rain is almost constant and the temperatures are so high, it's hard to stay inside of the house at night. Residents were given notice as short as one day and some of the houses were burned after they left.  In the last decades several private nature reserves and a national park have been created in the area surrounding the village and local fishermen have been forbidden entry into and fishing in these areas. It dramatically limits  fishing and wood collection opportunities.  In the recent years, Brazilian NGO called ECOA has worked successfully with residents to help them grant access to and fishing rights to a small part of the reserve. Life here is very precarious as the water levels vary dramatically (several meters difference), depending on th
    People of the RIver_2021Website_0013.jpg
  • Ana Victoria do Carmo Silva watches a chicken being chased away by dogs after the chicken sneaked into her parents' house in Barra do São Lourenço.   Barra do São Lourenço is one of the most remote communities in Pantanal, possible the largest wetlands in the world.  It takes local residents up to 30 hours on a small passenger and cattle boat to get to the near city of Corumba on the Brazilian and Bolivian border. The city is roughly 250 km of nothing but wetlands from the village. Local residents are mostly the decedents of Indians who had lived in the area for centuries.  In 1994 the community was forced out of their houses on a higher ground on the mountain side of the river after a local fazenda (farm) was turned into a private nature reserve. The international NGO Nature Conservancy bought 56,000 hectares of the land and left it under the leadership of Ecotropica in order to start the nature reserve.  Residents received serious threats and worried about their safety had to leave their houses paddling down the river in tiny wooden canoes in the beginning of the worst weather season here called Piracema where the mosquitos are so prevalent that it's hard to talk or eat without swallowing some. Some women ware pregnant and all residents had to survive without shelter in the season when the rain is almost constant and the temperatures are so high, it's hard to stay inside of the house at night. Residents were given notice as short as one day and some of the houses were burned after they left.  In the last decades several private nature reserves and a national park have been created in the area surrounding the village and local fishermen have been forbidden entry into and fishing in these areas. It dramatically limits  fishing and wood collection opportunities.  In the recent years, Brazilian NGO called ECOA has worked successfully with residents to help them grant access to and fishing rights to a small part of the reserve. Life here is very precarious as the w
    People of the RIver_2021Website_0014.jpg
  • Daily ritual of a soccer game in the village.  By necessity, one of the goals is located only a meter from the river bank. The dry strip of land between the river and the marshes is only 60 meters wide. It serves as a pasture area for cows and horses but every afternoon it turns into a soccer field.  Teenage boys and men in their early 20s from Barra do Sao Lorenzo play their daily soccer game at 4PM.   Barra do Sao Lorenzo is one of the most remote communities in Pantanal, possible the largest wetlands in the world.  It takes local residents up to 30 hours on a small passenger and cattle boat to get to the near city of Corumba on the Brazilian and Bolivian border. The city is roughly 250 km of nothing but wetlands from the village. Local residents are mostly the decedents of Indians who had lived in the area for centuries.  In 1994 the community was forced out of their houses on a higher ground on the mountain side of the river after a local fazenda (farm) was turned into a private nature reserve. The international NGO Nature Conservancy bought 56,000 hectares of the land and left it under the leadership of Ecotropica in order to start the nature reserve.  Residents received serious threats and worried about their safety had to leave their houses paddling down the river in tiny wooden canoes in the beginning of the worst weather season here called Piracema where the mosquitos are so prevalent that it's hard to talk or eat without swallowing some. Some women ware pregnant and all residents had to survive without shelter in the season when the rain is almost constant and the temperatures are so high, it's hard to stay inside of the house at night. Residents were given notice as short as one day and some of the houses were burned after they left.  In the last decades several private nature reserves and a national park have been created in the area surrounding the village and local fishermen have been forbidden entry into and fishing in these areas. It dramatically lim
    People of the RIver_2021Website_0015.jpg
  • Two boys jump into the river to retrieve a soccer ball. One of the goals is located only one meter from the river bank. The dry strip of land between the river and the marshes is only 60 meters wide. It serves as a pasture area for cows and horses but every afternoon it turns into a soccer field.  Teenage boys and men in their early 20s from Barra do Sao Lorenzo play their daily soccer game at 4PM.   Barra do Sao Lorenzo is one of the most remote communities in Pantanal, possible the largest wetlands in the world.  It takes local residents up to 30 hours on a small passenger and cattle boat to get to the near city of Corumba on the Brazilian and Bolivian border. The city is roughly 250 km of nothing but wetlands from the village. Local residents are mostly the decedents of Indians who had lived in the area for centuries.  In 1994 the community was forced out of their houses on a higher ground on the mountain side of the river after a local fazenda (farm) was turned into a private nature reserve. The international NGO Nature Conservancy bought 56,000 hectares of the land and left it under the leadership of Ecotropica in order to start the nature reserve.  Residents received serious threats and worried about their safety had to leave their houses paddling down the river in tiny wooden canoes in the beginning of the worst weather season here called Piracema where the mosquitos are so prevalent that it's hard to talk or eat without swallowing some. Some women ware pregnant and all residents had to survive without shelter in the season when the rain is almost constant and the temperatures are so high, it's hard to stay inside of the house at night. Residents were given notice as short as one day and some of the houses were burned after they left.  In the last decades several private nature reserves and a national park have been created in the area surrounding the village and local fishermen have been forbidden entry into and fishing in these areas. It dramatically limits
    People of the RIver_2021Website_0016.jpg
  • Iara Aparecida do Carme looks on as her kids Ana Victoria do Carme Silva and Guilherme Gabriel  admire a little bait fish she caught a moment earlier outside of their house in Barra do São Lourenço. Iara has moved back to the community with a new husband 4 months earlier after living for many years in the city of Corumba, 250 km away. Iara has several other kids with previous partners, some stayed behind in Corumba, two of her sons are raised by Sidy's family next door.   Barra do São Lourenço is one of the most remote communities in Pantanal, possible the largest wetlands in the world.  It takes local residents up to 30 hours on a small passenger and cattle boat to get to the near city of Corumba on the Brazilian and Bolivian border. The city is roughly 250 km of nothing but wetlands from the village. Local residents are mostly the decedents of Indians who had lived in the area for centuries.  In 1994 the community was forced out of their houses on a higher ground on the mountain side of the river after a local fazenda (farm) was turned into a private nature reserve. The international NGO Nature Conservancy bought 56,000 hectares of the land and left it under the leadership of Ecotropica in order to start the nature reserve.  Residents received serious threats and worried about their safety had to leave their houses paddling down the river in tiny wooden canoes in the beginning of the worst weather season here called Piracema where the mosquitos are so prevalent that it's hard to talk or eat without swallowing some. Some women ware pregnant and all residents had to survive without shelter in the season when the rain is almost constant and the temperatures are so high, it's hard to stay inside of the house at night. Residents were given notice as short as one day and some of the houses were burned after they left.  In the last decades several private nature reserves and a national park have been created in the area surrounding the village and local fishermen hav
    People of the RIver_2021Website_0017.jpg
  • Rose Velosquez shares a laugh with her aunt Elane  while holding her baby son Israel, 8 months, in her house in Barra do São Lourenço.   Barra do São Lourenço is one of the most remote communities in Pantanal, possible the largest wetlands in the world.  It takes local residents up to 30 hours on a small passenger and cattle boat to get to the near city of Corumba on the Brazilian and Bolivian border. The city is roughly 250 km of nothing but wetlands from the village. Local residents are mostly the decedents of Indians who had lived in the area for centuries.  In 1994 the community was forced out of their houses on a higher ground on the mountain side of the river after a local fazenda (farm) was turned into a private nature reserve. The international NGO Nature Conservancy bought 56,000 hectares of the land and left it under the leadership of Ecotropica in order to start the nature reserve.  Residents received serious threats and worried about their safety had to leave their houses paddling down the river in tiny wooden canoes in the beginning of the worst weather season here called Piracema where the mosquitos are so prevalent that it's hard to talk or eat without swallowing some. Some women ware pregnant and all residents had to survive without shelter in the season when the rain is almost constant and the temperatures are so high, it's hard to stay inside of the house at night. Residents were given notice as short as one day and some of the houses were burned after they left.  In the last decades several private nature reserves and a national park have been created in the area surrounding the village and local fishermen have been forbidden entry into and fishing in these areas. It dramatically limits  fishing and wood collection opportunities.  In the recent years, Brazilian NGO called ECOA has worked successfully with residents to help them grant access to and fishing rights to a small part of the reserve. Life here is very precarious as the water levels v
    People of the RIver_2021Website_0018.jpg
  • Stefane Faria da Souza, 5, shows off a doll in the house of her aunt in the community of Barra do Sao Lorenzo. She is utterly unaware of the irony and contrast of the blond, Barbie like, doll in the hands of a dark skinned, black, curly haired girl who has in her veins the blood of indigenous people who originally inhabited this land.    Barra do Sao Lorenzo is one of the most remote communities in Pantanal, possible the largest wetlands in the world.  It takes local residents up to 30 hours on a small passenger and cattle boat to get to the near city of Corumba on the Brazilian and Bolivian border. The city is roughly 250 km of nothing but wetlands from the village. Local residents are mostly the decedents of Indians who had lived in the area for centuries.  In 1994 the community was forced out of their houses on a higher ground on the mountain side of the river after a local fazenda (farm) was turned into a private nature reserve. The international NGO Nature Conservancy bought 56,000 hectares of the land and left it under the leadership of Ecotropica in order to start the nature reserve.  Residents received serious threats and worried about their safety had to leave their houses paddling down the river in tiny wooden canoes in the beginning of the worst weather season here called Piracema where the mosquitos are so prevalent that it's hard to talk or eat without swallowing some. Some women ware pregnant and all residents had to survive without shelter in the season when the rain is almost constant and the temperatures are so high, it's hard to stay inside of the house at night. Residents were given notice as short as one day and some of the houses were burned after they left.  In the last decades several private nature reserves and a national park have been created in the area surrounding the village and local fishermen have been forbidden entry into and fishing in these areas. It dramatically limits  fishing and wood collection opportunities.  In the recent year
    People of the RIver_2021Website_0019.jpg
  • Benedita Marques da Silva peeks from the boat that serves as a house for her and her husband Francisco in the community of Barra do Sao Lorenzo.   They are fishermen and leave every night to fish together from a small boat called chalana. They leave soon after midnight an fish until 8-9 AM when the fish bites best but also when there are most mosquitos. They fish for bait during the day and he complain that they doesn't get much sleep. Yet, they wouldn't change their lifestyle for a city life. Once every two weeks or so they make the 30 hour trip to Corumba to sell the fish he keeps on ice in his boat in the meantime. They can get 12-15 reais per kilo of pintado (local delicacy fish) as oppose to 6 reais per kilo selling it to boats in Barra.  Francisco has a house in Corumba, nearest town where he and his wife stay during Piracema to get away from mosquitos.   Barra do Sao Lorenzo is one of the most remote communities in Pantanal, possible the largest wetlands in the world.  It takes local residents up to 30 hours on a small passenger and cattle boat to get to the near city of Corumba on the Brazilian and Bolivian border. The city is roughly 250 km of nothing but wetlands from the village. Local residents are mostly the decedents of Indians who had lived in the area for centuries.  In 1994 the community was forced out of their houses on a higher ground on the mountain side of the river after a local fazenda (farm) was turned into a private nature reserve. The international NGO Nature Conservancy bought 56,000 hectares of the land and left it under the leadership of Ecotropica in order to start the nature reserve.  Residents received serious threats and worried about their safety had to leave their houses paddling down the river in tiny wooden canoes in the beginning of the worst weather season here called Piracema where the mosquitos are so prevalent that it's hard to talk or eat without swallowing some. Some women ware pregnant and all residents had to survive wit
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  • Milu, a young dog that belongs to Odenice Pereira Aves got caught on a hook after playing with it and the line that was hanging from a tree outside of Odenice's house.  Odenice, who moved here with his new family 4 months ago from Corumba,  doesn't have nearly as much experience fishing as local residents and he sometimes comes back empty handed from fishing.  The family east only rice that day unless they catch some piranhas off the shore.
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  • Odenice Pereira Aves cuts through the skin of Milu, the young dog that belongs to him and his wife after Milu got caught on a hook after playing with it and the line that was hanging from a tree outside of Odenice's house.  Odenice, who moved here with his new family 4 months ago from Corumba,  doesn't have nearly as much experience fishing as local residents and he sometimes comes back empty handed from fishing.  The family east only rice that day unless they catch some piranhas off the shore.   Odenice's wife Iara grew up in the community of Barra do Sao Lorenzo, two of her older sons now stay next door with Sidy's family and they seem to ignore their biological mother. Iara moved to the city of Corumba where she lived for years and where she had more children with another man (other men).  She then met and married Odenice Pereira Aves. They have a son together Guilherme Gabriel.  Barra do Sao Lorenzo is one of the most remote communities in Pantanal, possible the largest wetlands in the world.  It takes local residents up to 30 hours on a small passenger and cattle boat to get to the near city of Corumba on the Brazilian and Bolivian border. The city is roughly 250 km of nothing but wetlands from the village. Local residents are mostly the decedents of Indians who had lived in the area for centuries.  In 1994 the community was forced out of their houses on a higher ground on the mountain side of the river after a local fazenda (farm) was turned into a private nature reserve. The international NGO Nature Conservancy bought 56,000 hectares of the land and left it under the leadership of Ecotropica in order to start the nature reserve.  Residents received serious threats and worried about their safety had to leave their houses paddling down the river in tiny wooden canoes in the beginning of the worst weather season here called Piracema where the mosquitos are so prevalent that it's hard to talk or eat without swallowing some. Some women ware pregnant and all reside
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  • Tailsom Pilar de Souza, 12,  experiments with a cow head that sits on a table outside Dona Maria's house. The head is part of the half cow brought by boat to the village by Aurelio Sorio Folho who works on nearby fazenda. The meat was cut up and will be sold to the are residents in Barra. The meat is quite expensive at 13 reais per kilo.   Barra do Sao Lorenzo is one of the most remote communities in Pantanal, possible the largest wetlands in the world.  It takes local residents up to 30 hours on a small passenger and cattle boat to get to the near city of Corumba on the Brazilian and Bolivian border. The city is roughly 250 km of nothing but wetlands from the village. Local residents are mostly the decedents of Indians who had lived in the area for centuries.  In 1994 the community was forced out of their houses on a higher ground on the mountain side of the river after a local fazenda (farm) was turned into a private nature reserve. The international NGO Nature Conservancy bought 56,000 hectares of the land and left it under the leadership of Ecotropica in order to start the nature reserve.  Residents received serious threats and worried about their safety had to leave their houses paddling down the river in tiny wooden canoes in the beginning of the worst weather season here called Piracema where the mosquitos are so prevalent that it's hard to talk or eat without swallowing some. Some women ware pregnant and all residents had to survive without shelter in the season when the rain is almost constant and the temperatures are so high, it's hard to stay inside of the house at night. Residents were given notice as short as one day and some of the houses were burned after they left.  In the last decades several private nature reserves and a national park have been created in the area surrounding the village and local fishermen have been forbidden entry into and fishing in these areas. It dramatically limits  fishing and wood collection opportunities.
    People of the RIver_2021Website_0023.jpg
  • Barra do Sao Lorenzo is one of the most remote communities in Pantanal, possible the largest wetlands in the world.  It takes local residents up to 30 hours on a small passenger and cattle boat to get to the near city of Corumba on the Brazilian and Bolivian border. The city is roughly 250 km of nothing but wetlands from the village. Local residents are mostly the decedents of Indians who had lived in the area for centuries.  In 1994 the community was forced out of their houses on a higher ground on the mountain side of the river after a local fazenda (farm) was turned into a private nature reserve. The international NGO Nature Conservancy bought 56,000 hectares of the land and left it under the leadership of Ecotropica in order to start the nature reserve.  Residents received serious threats and worried about their safety had to leave their houses paddling down the river in tiny wooden canoes in the beginning of the worst weather season here called Piracema where the mosquitos are so prevalent that it's hard to talk or eat without swallowing some. Some women ware pregnant and all residents had to survive without shelter in the season when the rain is almost constant and the temperatures are so high, it's hard to stay inside of the house at night. Residents were given notice as short as one day and some of the houses were burned after they left.  In the last decades several private nature reserves and a national park have been created in the area surrounding the village and local fishermen have been forbidden entry into and fishing in these areas. It dramatically limits  fishing and wood collection opportunities.  In the recent years, Brazilian NGO called ECOA has worked successfully with residents to help them grant access to and fishing rights to a small part of the reserve. Life here is very precarious as the water levels vary dramatically (several meters difference), depending on the season. Residents of the village eke out a living on a vary narrow strip of hi
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  • A cow head that sits on a table outside Dona Maria's house. The head is part of the half a cow brought by boat to the village by Aurelio Sorio Folho who works on nearby fazenda. The meat was cut up and will be sold to the are residents in Barra. The meat is quite expensive at 13 reais per kilo.   Barra do Sao Lorenzo is one of the most remote communities in Pantanal, possible the largest wetlands in the world.  It takes local residents up to 30 hours on a small passenger and cattle boat to get to the near city of Corumba on the Brazilian and Bolivian border. The city is roughly 250 km of nothing but wetlands from the village. Local residents are mostly the decedents of Indians who had lived in the area for centuries.  In 1994 the community was forced out of their houses on a higher ground on the mountain side of the river after a local fazenda (farm) was turned into a private nature reserve. The international NGO Nature Conservancy bought 56,000 hectares of the land and left it under the leadership of Ecotropica in order to start the nature reserve.  Residents received serious threats and worried about their safety had to leave their houses paddling down the river in tiny wooden canoes in the beginning of the worst weather season here called Piracema where the mosquitos are so prevalent that it's hard to talk or eat without swallowing some. Some women ware pregnant and all residents had to survive without shelter in the season when the rain is almost constant and the temperatures are so high, it's hard to stay inside of the house at night. Residents were given notice as short as one day and some of the houses were burned after they left.  In the last decades several private nature reserves and a national park have been created in the area surrounding the village and local fishermen have been forbidden entry into and fishing in these areas. It dramatically limits  fishing and wood collection opportunities.  In the recent years, Brazilian NGO called ECOA has worked s
    People of the RIver_2021Website_0025.jpg
  • White horse walks through the marshes outside of Sidy Marques da Silva's house. Horses are sometimes attacked by jaguars here as they, unlike cows with horns, have no way to defend themselves. Another horse was attacked a week ago 300 yards from here, outside of another resident's house. The horse survived but had deep wounds on his neck and body. Horses and cows need to wander through marshes to find food.     Barra do Sao Lorenzo is one of the most remote communities in Pantanal, possible the largest wetlands in the world.  It takes local residents up to 30 hours on a small passenger and cattle boat to get to the near city of Corumba on the Brazilian and Bolivian border. The city is roughly 250 km of nothing but wetlands from the village. Local residents are mostly the decedents of Indians who had lived in the area for centuries.  In 1994 the community was forced out of their houses on a higher ground on the mountain side of the river after a local fazenda (farm) was turned into a private nature reserve. The international NGO Nature Conservancy bought 56,000 hectares of the land and left it under the leadership of Ecotropica in order to start the nature reserve.  Residents received serious threats and worried about their safety had to leave their houses paddling down the river in tiny wooden canoes in the beginning of the worst weather season here called Piracema where the mosquitos are so prevalent that it's hard to talk or eat without swallowing some. Some women ware pregnant and all residents had to survive without shelter in the season when the rain is almost constant and the temperatures are so high, it's hard to stay inside of the house at night. Residents were given notice as short as one day and some of the houses were burned after they left.  In the last decades several private nature reserves and a national park have been created in the area surrounding the village and local fishermen have been forbidden entry into and fishing in these areas. It dramatic
    People of the RIver_2021Website_0026.jpg